Buying a used car in Germany: what to check first
Updated 2026 · ~7 min read
Germany has the largest used-car market in Europe, which is exactly why it also has the most clocked odometers, hidden repairs and murky histories. Here is what to verify — before you drive 900 km to see a car.
1. The document that matters most: Fahrzeugbrief
Officially Zulassungsbescheinigung Teil II. It is the title document. Without it you cannot register the car, and whoever doesn't have it may not be the owner.
- Ask for a photo before you even arrange a viewing.
- Check the VIN matches the one on the car.
- Look at the number of previous keepers (Anzahl der Halter) — five owners on a seven-year-old car is a warning.
Teil I (formerly Fahrzeugschein) is the registration certificate — you need that too.
2. The COC document — ask immediately
The Certificate of Conformity makes registration in your country far simpler, and it is the authoritative source for the CO₂ figure that drives your registration tax. If the seller doesn't have it, it must be ordered from the manufacturer (slow and not free) or replaced by individual approval.
Ask in your very first message: «Haben Sie die COC-Bescheinigung?» If the seller doesn't know what that is, that tells you something in itself.
3. Odometer fraud
The most common fraud in the used market. How to defend yourself:
- Service book (Scheckheft). If the ad says scheckheftgepflegt, ask for photos of every entry — dates and mileage should rise smoothly.
- TÜV reports. The odometer reading is recorded at every roadworthiness test. Ask for the latest report.
- VIN history check. Services such as carVertical or CARFAX collect records across countries and show the mileage over time. A few dozen euros that can save you thousands.
- Wear versus mileage. Seat bolsters, steering wheel, pedals and gear knob at 90,000 km should not look like 250,000.
4. What German ad wording actually means
| German term | What it means |
|---|
| Unfallfrei | No accident — according to the seller. Not a guarantee. |
| Unfallwagen | The car has been in an accident. |
| Bastlerfahrzeug | «For hobbyists» — usually means a serious fault. |
| Export / Nur Export | Not suitable for German registration — often signals a major problem. |
| Scheckheftgepflegt | Serviced on schedule with a stamped book. |
| TÜV neu | Fresh roadworthiness test. |
| HU/AU bis … | Test valid until the stated date. |
| Gewährleistung ausgeschlossen | No warranty. Standard in private sales. |
| 1. Hand | One previous owner. |
| Standheizung | Auxiliary parking heater — a genuine plus in colder climates. |
5. Dealer or private seller
Dealer (Händler): under EU law a consumer buyer normally has statutory rights against defects. Prices are somewhat higher and paperwork is in order. For a first import this is the safer route.
Private seller (Privatverkäufer): cheaper, but warranty is normally excluded. All the risk is yours.
6. Before you travel
- Ask for photos of the Fahrzeugbrief, the COC and the latest TÜV report.
- Run a VIN history check.
- Ask for a video call and have the seller start the engine from cold — some faults are only audible then.
- Agree the car will be cold when you arrive. A warmed-up engine hides starting problems.
- Check parts prices for that engine in advance. A low price is sometimes low for a reason.
Never send a deposit before seeing the car. A request to «reserve» it with an advance payment is the most common scam in cross-border listings.
7. At the viewing
- Cold start — listen to the first ten seconds.
- Even panel gaps; uneven ones mean repair work.
- Paint — shade differences between door and wing show up in daylight.
- Under the boot carpet — rust or water marks.
- Test drive of at least 20 minutes, including a stretch of motorway.
- OBD scan — a cheap reader reveals stored faults someone cleared just before the sale.
On anything worth more than a few thousand euros, an on-site professional inspection (DEKRA or TÜV in Germany, roughly €100-150) almost always pays for itself.
8. Payment and handover
- For larger sums use a bank transfer, not cash.
- Sign a sales contract (Kaufvertrag) in two copies — the ADAC publishes free templates.
- Take both parts of the registration document and all keys.
- To drive it home you need export plates (Ausfuhrkennzeichen) and insurance — or use a transporter.
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Quick checklist
- ☐ Photo of Fahrzeugbrief (Teil II), VIN matches
- ☐ COC document exists
- ☐ Service book with entries
- ☐ Latest TÜV report
- ☐ VIN history checked
- ☐ Video call with a cold start
- ☐ Import cost calculated, including registration tax
- ☐ Payment method and contract agreed